London Menswear AW10: Orschel-Read’s Fageln.

March 1, 2010
With all the Topman-sponsored platforms for designers that have emerged in London these past few seasons, it’s been easy to forget one of the best. Vauxhall Fashion Scout sponsors a selection of emerging designers each season to show or exhibit their work at one of the city’s most architecturally breathtaking (and Pelayo-approved) venues, the Freemasons’ Hall on Great Queen St.

Last season I had the pleasure of sitting second row for Satyenkumar‘s showing of his ethereal, candy-coloured SS10 collection, and just last Wednesday I was lucky enough to delve into a realm of fables and culture-clashing courtesy of CSM-grad and Swedish designer Orschel-Read. I’d been kind of captivated by Orschel-Read’s AW09
Mourning for Orland collection prior to this, so the whole affair was doubly exciting.

Inspired by the beauty of female birds, the early work of English textile designer William Morris and the ceiling murals of Stockholm’s Storkyrkan Cathedral, Orschel-Read produced a veritable fashion feast which mixed the quiet femininity of soft-hued prints with the more robust tailoring inspired by the traditional uniform of the Japanese samurai. Detail was abundant as garments were lavishly embroidered, the palette was juxtaposition of soft fleshy tones with those of a more earthy kind and the silhouette drew inspiration from the importance of menswear tailoring while also giving a nod to a casual sportswear sensibility. Being nosey and an avid fan, I had to ask a few questions…

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This collection mixes militaristic tailoring with feminine hues/prints. Would you consider this fusion of the masculine and feminine key to the collection?

A certain balance between masculine and feminine is something that underpins much of the Orschel-Read brand, not only the AW10 collection. This is an exploration of a concept that Virginia Woolf discussed in her 1928 novel Orlando – that there is no divide between men and women. There are differences, but many more similarities.

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Any interesting stories/anecdotes regarding the production of the collection?

One of the themes of this collection was ‘hidden detail’. As the collection went on the details became more and more hidden. In addition to all the under-collars being embroidered and the pockets being hidden inside of pockets, there are many hand-stitched details that can not be seen without taking the garments apart.

Describe the Orschel-Read man.

The Orschel-Read man has impeccable taste and is highly aware of his personality and how he expresses himself through his appearance. He is a true gentleman with a certain shy sexiness. He has a keen eye for detail and for quality.


Not to mention Gaga’s a fan. The otherworldly jewellery is by Marie Parsons.

Images by Luke Nugent and Paul Morgan

  • Charleston March 5, 2010 at 10:31 am

    Wow, Orschel has really upgraded himself from September's collection that I went to see. This season is a sharp mix of sci-fi shapes with tailoring and texture. I like that he's slowly going away from the 'party monster' vibe into more legitimate runway territory, but is still retaining a subtle essence of his eclectic playful side.

  • Yann Bunzll March 6, 2010 at 12:48 pm

    AMAZING blazer Grey & Pink! Great picture i like that :p Yann!XOXO