Once I started making collections I also found that I enjoyed the immediacy of the process and the way I could reinvent the story every few months.
Where did you train?
I did a degree in Fine Art in New Zealand. My main fashion training was a Masters at Central Saint Martins.
What other brands/houses did you work for before establishing your own label?
I worked for Michalsky in Berlin and did consultations for Tim Soar in London and Mattijs in Amsterdam. I also worked for a big retail chain in the Netherlands for a year. While designing mass fashion is very educational it’s very nice to be able to be creative again!
What inspires you?
I find small snippets of life, experiences, either real or made up, as the most potent starting point. Once a story comes into focus I try and build a fuller picture through visual research. I love uniform detailing, traditional structuring and the architectural aspect of garment cosntruction, so drawing through these ideas and seeing where they go is a very exciting part of the development process.
I am also increasingly interested in fabric treatments and manipulations.
Your AW10 collection seems to strike the optimum balance between outdoorsy ruggedness and an understated but still ornate chic. What was your starting point for the collection in terms of inspiration?
I wanted to create an imaginary wardrobe of a soldier returning home from a war. The past lingers on in the way he dresses showing the influence of his previous experience as he embarks on a new, urban life.
The designs tried to combine uniforms and performance clothes and then alter them into classic city styles. This ranged from reversible coats with a protective coating on one side, and a classic wool on the other, through to army style pants in noble fabrics. We also developed modern camouflage which was inspired by early computer graphics from the 80’s.