How is it that some of the designers whose work you rate high above the rest are often the ones you forget purely due to the fact that they don’t get as much press (Neil Barrett)? And those that hold that so coveted position in fashion, which sees their work presented to be adored without question (yes, you, Miuccia) constitute an almost compulsory inclusion in a magazine spread? Something’s amiss. Still, ignoring Prada, Milan seems to have turned out another stellar spate of collections…
^ Neil Barrett AW10/11 – Leather? In a Neil Barrett collection? Ok, not exactly groundbreaking. But what is really captivating about this is Barrett’s use of leather patches and kind of fabric-junctions whereby the silhouette is divided into several parts. Also liking the juxtaposition of light-hearted whimsy with a hard edge (those buttons/fabric circles upon an epaulletted mac).
^ Alexander McQueen AW10/11 – This reminds me of kaleidoscopes (great) and also of snakeskin (not great). Still, despite the set’s (and a few of the suits’-) resemblance to writhing serpents (and fungal spores now that I look at it again…), McQueen consolidated his position as the creator of the incredibly unconventional and yet entirely wearable. Oh, and more leather sections – always good.
^ Prada AW10/11 – I think it says a lot that the above are the best looks I could pull from this collection. No longer is Mrs. Prada bent on feminising men, but rather forcing them to regress to the age of about 3. If I find you wearing a sweater vest like these, I just can’t promise that I won’t plead with you to burn it post-haste. The abundance of camel, on the other hand, is somewhat more appealing.
^ Moncler Gamme Bleu AW10/11 – While I’d have to be on the brink of freezing to death before wearing one of this collection’s pieces, must admit that the presentation method was pretty amazing. As far as I can see from runway pics, it began with models asleep in beds, then proceeding to dress and display.
Images from GQ