Prada has – in the past – brought about reactions both abhorrent and admiring from me, sometimes it’s not sufficiently wearable, other times her conceptual impetus is pure BS and leads to frustration when one makes any attempt at comprehending and then, on a rare occasion, I find myself absolutely enamoured of her innovation. Since SS10 drew inspiration from black-and-white film (quotes from films of the ilk dressed the show’s set) I was sold from the start. (Note, too, that Tim Blanks’ divulging that the backstage drink was my alcoholic BFF – the Black Russian – was surely instrumental in my having such a positive response.)
Enough of filmic inspiration. It is, after all, the actual clothing that leaves the spectator with the (hopefully) indelible impression, not the highfaluting talking-up. And what an impression this selection of altered and undone suits made. Since a significant number of men spend quite a considerable amount of time in them, Miuccia addressed the issue in the only way she knows, her trademark deconstruction and idiosyncratic embellishment. So, no standard office-fare here then. Suits were perforated or sleeveless and traditional shirting made no appearance. In its place was an abundance of deep v-necked vests and cardigans, all in not-so-dull shades of grey.
And while skirts weren’t centre-stage this season, ragged-hemmed short-shorts and all that mesh certainly went some way in furthering the proposition of Miuccia’s new definition of masculinity – “sexier, more beautiful, more sensitive […] vulnerable”.
Images and quote from Men’s Style