Olivier Borde SS09: Quiet Reinvention.

With the slew of SS10 shows and presentations past us and numerous new aesthetic-leanings to digest (was it me or did there seem to be a mound more shows this seasons due to increased coverage? Thanks, incidentally, to WWD, Men’s Style and Dazed) I thought some tangential blogging (read: not a SS10 show review) was in order.

So, I guess this is an address of reader sentiment of sorts (and also a collection review actually…what? I don’t think I know anything else after all that amateur critiquing over the past while…). When I posted this interview with recent Antwerp-grad Six Lee Anonymous commented that his work was uncannily similar to that of a designer (heretofore unknown to me) – Olivier Borde. Yet another Anonymous retaliated by declaring that Lee’s designs bore no significant similarity to Olivier Borde and I’d probably be inclined to agree. Damn though, he is a fine designer and if it weren’t for this Comment-section disagreement I’d still most likely be in the dark. Thanks, then, to Anonymous!

Just like GFW the International Festival d’Hyeres is an event which invariably intrigues and excites me endlessly but also one which I frequently forget to investigate in-depth. It was at this, fashion’s biannual fair of tremendous talent, that Olivier Borde showed his first collection, for AW08 (and lest ye forget, that year the panel included Riccardo Tisci and Haider Ackermann so this his being selected was no mean feat…)

Borde was lauded for his reinvention of menswear classicism and the SS09 collection is more than sufficient proof of his success. Casual staples like the denim jacket are adjusted, endowed with a certain sensuality achieved with the curving of a collar or pocket, standard sportswear pieces like the polo are noticeably altered with a geometric, pannelled print, and derby shoes are boldly bright yellow – I don’t think I need say more.

Images from Olivier Borde