New York SS10: Highlights Vol. 1

Being frank, I don’t reckon anyone expects to see anything ostensibly unconventional in the runway looks of NYC’s menswear-makers. The ostentatious is usually best left to London, and the more dapper, daren’t-dress-down looks are often to be found in Paris. New York, a city whose apparent style could be epitomised by “laid-back casual cool”, isn’t usually the most provocative of the fashion capitals but the latest from NYFW begs to differ. With more colour-popping and dandy-esque detailing than ever before, it seems a new NY man is born.

Influenced by the late 60s and early 70s (and the hedonistic icons associated – Bowie, Hendrix etc.) Simon Spurr produced a collection of decidedly luxe suits and denim separates that weren’t – as Tim Blanks noted – so much reminiscent of the icons cited above but rather the other artiste he mentioned, Helmut Newton, the photographer who popularised the simultaneously lewd and sophisticated look. No, these aren’t bind-my-feet-and-gag-me lewd but there’s a louch suaveness that simmers in the corsages and rich, bright shades.

^ Spurr SS10

Robert Geller, he of the grungy and seductively dark aesthetic, seemed to lighten-up somewhat for SS10. Inspired by the spirit of Germans vacationing by the North Sea with a sense of post-war calm, he fashioned a collection of sheer cottons, bright-hued nylons and denim that ran the colour-gamut from blues to mustard. The signature poetic sombreness made an appearance too, however, in dark leathers and some seriously covetable black tulle pins/brooches.

^ Robert Geller SS10

Is there another designer helming the NY menswear revolution to such an extent as the unabashed and somewhat subversive showman, Thom Browne? I don’t reckon so. From spacey sportswear to almost clownish collegiate pieces (see those gargantuan-polka-dot blazers) this man is full-on menswear magic. Save for the painted lips, the too-short skorts and a few other theatrical enhancements added purely for runway purposes, I’d wear any piece in a heartbeat.

^ Thom Browne SS10

Images from Men’s Style